Jadau Jewelry
India is famous worldwide for its jewelry and more importantly for its
interest in jewelry. The fact that gold, silver, diamonds, rubies and
other precious materials are not only seen as ornamentation but also as
sound investments – especially gold – means that jewelry plays a huge
role in India. Every special occasion demands gifts of gold and jewelry.
This becomes even more important at weddings.Jewelry is very important for the Indian bride, no matter which region
she belongs to. From Kashmir to Kerala, every traditional wedding sees a
bride bedecked in jewels. This is to not only enhance her beauty but
also to demonstrate to everyone, especially the groom’s family, the
affluence of the bride’s family. In different regions this is done with
different types of jewelry, but more and more we witness crossovers,
such as a Tamil bride wearing the chuda or a Punjabi bride wearing a
thalaisaamaan. This has enhanced the popularity of what till recently
were local styles or styles limited to North India or South India. One
such style is the Jadau style.
What Is Jadau : Many people tend to confuse Jadau with other artworks such as Kundan,
Polki and Meenakari. Here is a proper clarification. Kundan is jewelry
that is embedded with glass beads. Polki uses the same technique, the
only difference being that the stones here are not glass but uncut
diamonds called Polki. Meenakari is the art of using enamelling in
jewelry. And finally, Jadau is a technique that also uses Polki,
Meenakari and Kundan but the technique varies a bit from Kundan work.
Jad means to be embedded and that is the technique used by artisans who
craft this style of Jewelry.As with many others of our jewelry traditions, Jadau was brought into
the country by the Mughals. It was then perfected by the Indian
craftsmen of Rajasthan, specifically Bikaner. Even today it is
acknowledged that the Jadau work from Bikaner is exceptional. However,
Bikaner is not the only centre for Jadau work. Over time this tradition
has spread to other cities such as Jaipur and even to other states such
as Gujarat. Today Rajasthan and Gujarat are the most well known states
for Jadau work. These days, though, Jadau is also available through
major jewellers all over the country.
How Is It Made : Jadau work is complicated and involves a team of craftsmen, each of whom
must know his work very well. The jewelry takes a long time to make –
setting just four to five stones can take a whole day. Each craftsman
has a specific task. The primary design of the ornament is made by the
chiterias.The engravings and the making of holes to allow for the embedding later
are done by craftsmen known as the ghaarias. As mentioned earlier, this
technique is about embedding stones. Gold is melted just a bit, enough
to make it pliable. Once it becomes that way, the stones or crystals are
set on it. Care and finesse is required to do this job precisely. Once
the gold cools down, the gems or crystals adhere to it without any help.
The enamellers decorate the back of the ornament with Meenakari.
Jadau and The Indian Bride : Jadau jewelry is regal and suits any Indian bride beautifully. Besides,
modern crossovers and Bollywood have ensured that Jadau has found a
place in the bridal heart. After all, what bride doesn’t want to look
resplendent on her wedding day?The first thing for a bride is to know where to go to find this style.
Jaipur, Bikaner and Gujarat are supposed to be the home of Jadau. Those
looking for pure authenticity would be well advised to go there.
However, this is not necessary. These days you can get lovely Jadau
jewelry at many retail chains around the country.
How To Preserve Jadau Jewelry : Jadau work is very delicate and needs good maintenance to keep its
beauty intact. Therefore, it is essential to take good care of the
pieces before and after the wedding. Even the smallest Jadau ornament
looks regal so these are definitely not meant for daily wear. Keep the pieces in a dry environment, preferably wrapped in cotton
cloth. There should be minimal exposure to pollutants – these include
cosmetics and perfumes. Dust should also not be allowed to settle on the
pieces and heat and moisture are also a complete no-no.Use an eraser, the kind used to rub out pencil marks, to clean blemishes
from the jewelry. If this doesn’t work, take it to a reputable jeweller
to be cleaned. It is recommended that the jewelry be given to be
professionally cleaned at least once a year.Jadau carries the legacy of Indian jewelry and it is a legacy that is no
longer limited to Indian shores. Hollywood celebrities such as Jennifer
Lopez and Heather Graham have been spotted wearing this type of jewelry
with western gowns. This just goes to show the enduring popularity of
this craft and the reason every bride must consider having at least one
such piece among her jewelry.
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